Kedgeree

Being a middle-aged man of a certain age, I've grown (quite literally) to watch what I eat. When I say watch, I don't mean stare longingly at the fridge contents; I mean understand more what I am eating, the effect it has on my body - both physically and mentally - as well as cutting back a bit and having clear 'eating windows' of feasting.

Before you start yawning at yet another preaching health speech, this is far from it. For a food lover that cooks a lot, as well as knowing a thing or two about ingredients and nutrition, it's a tough personal ask to cut back and almost force myself to have eating windows. However, it works for me and I quite enjoy the discipline around it. But what works for me may not work for you. And hey, I'm just an old portly bloke trying to get control of his life and body. 

My eating windows means that I don't usually consume my first calories until midday but invariably, I allow myself a breakfast, or at least a mid-morning breakfast (or brunch; I still cringe at that word). And one breakfast I do love is the Anglo-Indian breakfast of kedgeree, a highly spiced rice, fish and egg dish that is a doddle to make and one that is primed for experimenting with. Traditionally used with smoked haddock, it can be made with any fish you love whether it is smoked or not. 

I like to use some of our brilliant North East kippers. For those not akin to a kipper, it is a whole, small oily fish (usually a herring) that has been split open, gutted, salted and cold-smoked. Up in the small fishing village of Craster on the Northumberland coastline, we are lucky to have L. Robson & Sons, a smokery that have been using traditional oak-smoked methods in the same buildings for over 100-years now. Their kippers have a beautiful, unique flavour that is not too salty and just the right kick of smokiness and perfect for this recipe.

If you can't get your hands on a kipper, revert to the alternative of smoked mackerel or trout that are widely available in your local supermarkets. But whatever you choose, do try this recipe out. It's an old-fashioned, comforting classic that is rarely seen now but once eaten, you won't forget. Perfect for breakfast, brunch, lunch or dinner.

Kedgeree
Feeds 4

4 eggs, boiled for 5 minutes then left to cool in cold water then peeled and quartered
200g basmati rice
4 fillets of smoked fish such as herring (kippers), mackerel or trout, flaked into big chunks

100g frozen peas, thawed
50g butter
1 onion, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, sliced
1 tbsp garam masala
1 tsp turmeric
1 tsp cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
A pinch of cayenne pepper
Salt and pepper
A handful of fresh parsley and/or coriander, roughly chopped

4 spring onions, sliced finely
1 lemon, quartered

1 - Cook the rice according to the instructions and keep warm in the pot with a tea towel and lid on the pan.

2 - Heat up the butter in a large pan. Add the onion and cook on a gentle heat for 5-10 minutes, stirring until softened and just beginning to colour.

3 - Add the garlic and spices and cook for 1-minute, stirring.

4 - Stir in the rice with a good knob of butter, stirring quickly to coat the rice thoroughly. Taste for seasoning but don't go too heavy on the salt as the smoked fish is quite salty.

5 - Stir through the peas until heated up. Then scatter with the flaked fish, herbs and spring onions and arrange with the eggs and sliced lemons.

6 - Serve straight from the pan at the table or into individual dishes.